Rabac Reflections

After exploring the west coast of Istria, we crossed to the opposite side of the peninsula and wound our way down a long, steep, twisty road to the little coastal beauty of Rabac. Nestled in a secluded bay and framed by olive-dotted hills, this place has a distinctly different feel from places like Rovinj, with less Venetian romance and more relaxed, beachy vibes.

We stayed at Camping Oliva, part of a resort complex with hotels, cabins, a couple of beach bars, and even a wellness centre (although we stuck to the bar-side of wellness, to be honest). Our pitch was a beauty shaded by ancient olive trees with the gentle chirping of cicadas for company. Blissful during the heat of the day.

A short path from the site takes you along the edge of the bay, winding all the way to the main town. Rabac’s seafront is lively but not lairy, lined with shops, restaurants, and cheerful bars. There’s a bit of everything – from boat trips and inflatable obstacle courses in the sea, to shady cafés perfect for an ice cream pit stop. Speaking of which… one evening we got our ice cream from a cocktail bar. Not quite our usual style, but hey, when in Rabac! Mojito-flavoured gelato might be a thing now.

The sea here is stunning, that classic Croatian turquoise, so clear you can see every pebble on the bottom. Now and then, you catch a whiff of fresh seafood grilling, suncream, and salty sea air. It’s a heady mix that says “holiday” better than any postcard.

One evening, Carole and Jim joined us for dinner at a lovely restaurant perched up on a terrace overlooking the bay, with stunning views and delicious food that made it one to remember. Another night they came over and we had an early birthday celebration before we went our separate ways. Wine, laughter, and a few tales retold the usual ingredients for a perfect evening on the road.

Oh, and let’s not forget the tiny land train that trundles along the bay front. We hopped on one evening just to see how far it would go; turns out, not very. It cheerfully did a loop and headed back before we’d even finished admiring the view. Still, it gave us a giggle.